|Dynamic Head Restraints||Driver, Front Passenger|
|Head Restraint||Driver, Front Passenger, Rear Seat|
|Advanced Belt Feature||Standard|
|Adjustable Upper Belt Anchorage||Driver, Front Passenger|
|Seat Belt Reminder System||Driver, Front Passenger|
|Frontal Air Bag||Driver, Front Passenger|
|Curtain||Driver, Front Passenger, Rear Seat|
|Pelvis/Torso||Driver, Front Passenger|
|Additional Air Bags||Not Available|
|Meets Side Air Bag Out-of-Position Requirements||Yes|
|LATCH Locations||Rear Seat|
|Safety Power Windows (Anti-Pinch)||Optional|
|Safety Power Windows (Anti-Pinch) locations||Driver|
|NHTSA ID Number:||11403247|
|Consumer Location:||INDIANA, PA|
VEHICLE ENGINE STALLS AND SHUTS DOWN WHEN I BRAKE AT INTERSECTIONS/LIGHTS. I HAVE TO PUT CAR IN P-ARK AND RESTART THE ENGINE. THIS STARTED HAPPENING WITHIN LAST TWO MONTHS AND IS INCREASING IN FREQUENCY; CAR NOW HAS 121 000 MILES. IT IS A VERY UNNERVING EXPERIENCE AND RAISES SAFETY CONCERNS. I HAVE SCHEDULED A SERVICE CALL WITH LOCAL DEALERSHIP TOMORROW BUT NOTICED ON SUBARU'S SITE SIMILAR CONCERNS FROM OTHER DRIVERS.
|NHTSA ID Number:||11386791|
|Consumer Location:||SPOKANE, WA|
LOW HEADLAMP BULB HOUSING MELTED SO BAD IT MUST BE REPLACED AT ESTIMATED DEALER COST OF $650. THERE IS AN EXTENDED WARRANTEE FOR REPLACING THE BULBS THAT HAVE BEEN BURNING OUT EVERY 6-9 MONTHS. I BELIEVE THEY HAVE BEEN BURNING UP DUE TO A MANUFACTURING DEFECT IN THE HOUSING THAT IS NOT BEING ADDRESSED. THERE SHOULD BE A RECALL ON THE LOW-BEAM HOUSING UNIT AS IT POSES A FIRE RISK. THE EXTENDED BULB REPLACEMENT WARRANTEE IS A BAND-AID THAT DID NOT ADDRESS THE UNDERLYING ISSUE.
|NHTSA ID Number:||11054230|
|Consumer Location:||SHEFFIELD, MA|
OVER THE PAST YEAR MY MECHANIC HAS PUT IN TWO NEW BATTERIES IN MY CAR. MY 2011 OUTBACK HAS A PROBLEM WITH STARTING, THIS WAS BACK WHEN I HAD 80,000 MILES ON IT. THE CONNECTORS WHERE FINE AND HE CLEANED THEM. THE ISSUE STILL HAS NOT BEEN RESOLVED, HE CAN'T SEEM TO FIGURE OUT WHAT IS CAUSING IT. THERE IS NO PROBLEM WITH THE ALTERNATOR. THE PASSENGER REAR BRAKE LIGHT HAS BEEN REPLACED THREE TIMES IN FOUR YEARS OF OWNERSHIP, AGAIN NO CAUSE FOR THE PROBLEM. I'VE TAKEN IT TO AUTHORIZED SUBARU DEALERSHIPS AND THE ORIGINAL ONE I PURCHASED FROM TO NO PREVAIL. TODAY I WRITE WITH THE ISSUE OF MY CVT. THE FACT THAT I RECEIVED A ONE YEAR OR 100,000 MILES FROM DATE OF YEAR MADE IS OR WHICH EVER COMES FIRST IS COMPLETE CRAP. TODAY I STARTED EXPERIENCING ISSUES WITH THE CAR WANTING TO WHAT I DESCRIBE AS STALLING OUT. I WAS GOING DOWN MY ROAD WHICH WAS SLUSHY FROM SNOW/RAIN BUT MAINLY WET FROM THE RAIN THAT CAME. SUBARU TOLD ME THERE IS NOTHING WRONG, AND WON'T DO ANYTHING TILL SOMETHING BRAKES. SO IF THE PROBLEM WHICH HAS PLAGUED ALMOST FIFTY THOUSAND OUTBACKS CAUSING 'STALLING" LIKE MANUALS WHEN THE CLUTCH ISN'T ENGAGED AND BEING TOLD IT NEEDS TO BRAKE?? THIS IS NOT SAFE TO OWNERS. THIS IS NOT SAFE TO OTHER MOTORISTS.THIS IS DEATHS WAITING TO HAPPEN, THIS NEEDS TO BE ADDRESSED AND MADE A RECALL. ONLY IN THE UNITED STATES CAN A MANUFACTURER GET AWAY WITH SUCH THINGS AS THIS. I'M HEADING INTO WINTER IN NEW ENGLAND, LAST THING I NEED IS FOR MY CAR TO FAIL IN A STORM, MEDICAL SITUATION ETC.. AND BE STRANDED BECAUSE THE AUTOMAKER ISN'T TAKEN FULL RESPONSIBILITY. SNOW BLOWS DON'T STOP ON A TIME, IS IT REALLY NECESSARY TO CONTINUE TO NEGLECT THE PROBLEM ?? WHICH SHOULD BE A RECALL WHICH IS FAILURE ON THE GOVERNMENT FOR NOT FORCING THE ISSUE.
|NHTSA ID Number:||11040553|
|Consumer Location:||MALDEN, MA|
CAR STALLED OUT WHEN I CAME TO AN ABRUPT STOP ON THE HIGHWAY DURING HEAVY TRAFFIC. IT SPUTTERED AND THEN THE CAR SHUT OFF. HAD TO BE PUT IN PARK AND RESTART CAR.
|NHTSA ID Number:||11040557|
|Consumer Location:||MALDEN, MA|
CAR STALLED OUT WHEN I CAME TO AN ABRUPT STOP. CAR HAD TO BE PUT IN PARK TO RESTART CAR. WAS TRAVELING ON THE HIGHWAY WHEN THIS HAPPENED
|NHTSA ID Number:||10937551|
|Consumer Location:||MORGANVILLE, NJ|
CAR IS STALLING WHEN IN MOTION, AND COMING TO A STOP WITHOUT STEADY BRAKE PRESSURE. IT SHUTTERS THEN STALLS. IT HAS HAPPENED AT LEAST 6 TIMES SINCE FALL 2016. "NHTSA ID NUMBER: 10080367- AVAILABILITY OF COUNTERMEASURE TORQUE CONVERTER ASSEMBLY" -DOESN'T SOLVE PROBLEM FOR CONSUMERS. LACK OF RECALL/ACTION ON A 2011 MODEL IS ALARMING! DOES THIS MALFUNCTION NEED TO HARM/KILL VICTIMS BEFORE ACTION IS TAKEN?
|NHTSA ID Number:||10915654|
|Consumer Location:||GUERNEVILLE, CA|
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2011 SUBARU OUTBACK. WHILE DRIVING OR WHEN COMING TO A SUDDEN STOP, THE VEHICLE WOULD STALL. THE CONTACT WAS ABLE TO RESTART THE VEHICLE. THERE WERE NO WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHO COULD NOT DIAGNOSE THE ISSUE. THE FAILURE OCCURRED ON NUMEROUS OCCASIONS. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE ISSUE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 118,000.
|NHTSA ID Number:||10650509|
|Consumer Location:||MORAVIA, NY|
AFTER OWNING THIS CAR FOR LESS THAN ONE YEAR, I HAD TO CHANGE THE LEFT HEADLAMP. I DO MY OWN WORK AND HAVE NEVER HAD AS MUCH TROUBLE WITH CHANGING A BULB THAN I HAVE WITH THIS OUTBACK. I HAD NO IDEA THAT THIS WOULD BECOME A "ROUTINE" SERVICE, ALTERNATING FROM LEFT TO RIGHT HEADLAMP(S). AFTER CHANGING OUT THE 5TH ONE (3 LEFT HEADLAMPS & 2 RIGHT HEADLAMPS) I PHONED THE DEALER TO SEE IF THERE HAD BEEN A RECALL, TSB OR IF OTHER OWNERS OF THIS OUTBACK HAD THE SAME TROUBLE. I WAS TOLD THEY COULD FIX THE PROBLEM AT MY COST. I WAS TOLD THEY KNEW OF A PROBLEM HOWEVER THERE WAS NO TSB ISSUED AND NO RECALL FOR THIS ISSUE. JUST YESTERDAY (26-OCT-2014) I HAVE DISCOVERED THE 3RD HEADLAMP ON THE RIGHT SIDE IS OUT AGAIN (RIGHT ON "SCHEDULE"). I DON'T REMEMBER HOW MANY LOW BEAM VS. HIGH BEAM BULBS I HAVE CHANGED BUT KNOW I HAVE ALSO CHANGED OUT THE FOG LIGHT ON THE LEFT SIDE ONCE. *TR
|NHTSA ID Number:||11462984|
|Consumer Location:||LAKE STEVENS, WA|
My 2011 Subaru Outback with the automatic CVT transmission has recently started stalling and dying entirely when coming to an abrupt stop. Or even coming to a stop in general, regardless of speed. This having started within the last month or so around the begging of March, 2022. My vehicle has just passed the 10 year mark and is still currently under 100k miles, currently at 96k. After much research and a few trips to the mechanic, I have found that this is a common issue regarding the torque converter within many Subaru vehicles. I have also found that this was such a common issue that this should have been labeled as a recall. But have discovered that this was an “extended warranty” concern instead. That being said, I have, on more than one occasion, come to a stop in traffic with my child in the car and my car just dies in the middle of the road. Which is entirely unsafe and in my opinion deserves a recall.
|NHTSA ID Number:||11459574|
|Consumer Location:||PRESCOTT, AZ|
Vehicle has under 90k miles been regularly maintained and serviced. While driving engine light came on for engine overheating. Stopped driving vehicle. Called local Subaru dealer for diagnostic. Diagnostic revealed several unknown problems including transmission needs to be replaced. Since vehicle has under 100 k miles and is only 11 years old. I could not believe that this problem occurred ( note transmission replacement is over $8000). I took the vehicle in for a second opinion to local AAA shop. They informed me that Subaru issued a technical service bulletin for that year model Outback about the very problem I am having. After an online search of information about this problem I found several owners with the same problem and NO admission or assistance from Subaru. This is an expensive fix for a problem Subaru which Subaru is aware. This is a very dangerous problem because the vehicle will die on the road while in traffic that could cause high risk of an accident with injuries and possibly death. I have written to Subaru North America for assistance. So far no response. I believe this a possible recall because most of the complaints noted the problem occurs around 100K miles. And Subaru has done nothing to mitigate this problem.
|NHTSA ID Number:||11458413|
|Consumer Location:||EXETER, PA|
The vehicle stalls out at stop signs and red light as far as I’m concerned this is a safety hazard.I-took it to Minooka Subaru and they said it it was a torque converter I had it fixed it cost me 1500 dollars and as far as I’m concerned it should be reimbursed because.,it is very much a safety hazard. This happen d numerous of times.
|NHTSA ID Number:||11455207|
|Consumer Location:||GRANBY, MA|
Continental Pro Contact P 225/ 60 R 17 Driver side tire sidewall formed large bubble. Purchased in November 2021 and had dealer install 4 tires. Noticed large sidewall bubble on sidewall in January 2022. Only three thousand miles on tire. Worried that this is a lifethreatening safety issue. We brought the car back to the dealer. We were told they have not seen anything like it on a Subaru Outback before. But other complaints on this site and others show that sidewall bubbles on the Continental Pro Contact series of tires is a known issue and should be addressed before someone is seriously injured.
|NHTSA ID Number:||11453799|
|Consumer Location:||CROTON-ON-HUDSON, NY|
Car started stalling when coming to a stop. No warning lights before or after. No check engine light or codes. Subaru dealership diagnosed it as torque converter without inspecting the car. Torque converter replaced by independent shop solved issue.
|NHTSA ID Number:||11448654|
|Consumer Location:||CINCINNATI, OH|
The hood latch will not stay locked so it’s popping as I’m driving. The hood hasn’t completely come up, yet, but it’s definitely an imminent danger. It has happened multiple times over the last three days.
|NHTSA ID Number:||11447914|
|Consumer Location:||SAUK RAPIDS, MN|
My son was driving the car when without warning the car shut down. I had the car in previously for a check engine light problem, which they diagnosed as a bad pin retention in connector in the bulkhead wiring harness. They replaced the harness but then found that the Unit EGI Con needed to be replaced probably due to the fault in the wiring harness (there words not mine). Previously I had the blower motor replaced, but it ended up being a bad connector. I asked to see the bulk head wiring harness, but the Subaru shop said they had already thrown it away. Previously I was told that wiring harness would be sent back to Subaru. I don't know if the wiring harness jacket/cover could have perhaps been damaged when it was installed when the car was assembled? There has not been any previous collision damage to car which I could see would lead to an issue with the wiring. I tried reaching out to Subaru about this problem, but they never responded.
|NHTSA ID Number:||11446541|
Brakes become soft and sometimes depression of brake pedal to floor to activate brakes. Master cylinder appears to be in need of replacement
|NHTSA ID Number:||11446054|
|Consumer Location:||NORTH LAWRENCE, OH|
While driving the car on or about 12/21/2021 at about 6 or 7 pm at night, I experienced a catastrophic failure of the transmission. The car lost drivetrain power and began to shudder and limp along the road. All the warning lights on the dashboard lit up at once. Fortunately, I was not on a highway, and I was able to safely pull over to the side of the road. But the incident did leave me unsettled and distressed especially as it was happening. There were no warning signs or indications of something was amissed prior to the failure. At a Subaru dealership service, I learned with the valve body and the torque converter need to be replaced at an expensive cost (almost $4,000). This is a problem that Subaru is aware of and has done little to address it before the failure occurs in affected vehicles at large. I feel this is a serious safety issue that needs to be proactively remedied before failure can occur. My car only has 160,000 miles and responsibly driven. Normally, such a car should not have experienced such a catastrophic failure in the transmission as mine did even at that accrued mileage. I also later learned that this is a prevalent problem on this particular car model, so much so that many dealership service departments are performing this type of repair at least once a week. For this problem to be this relatively widespread means there some sort of defect or design flaw in the system itself. There seems to be a high rate of incidence for a critical part on a vehicle that should normally and typically last the lifetime of the vehicle.
|NHTSA ID Number:||11443107|
|Consumer Location:||OXFORD, NC|
When coming to a stop, the transmission's torque converter does not disengage, causing the engine to stall. This was diagnosed by two independent repair shops and there is an open TSB from Subaru that addresses this problem. However, when slowing down at an intersection, the sudden stop can be dangerous.
|NHTSA ID Number:||11439878|
|Consumer Location:||TUSCALOOSA, AL|
I have a 2011 Subaru Outback with ~`40k miles. After buying the vehicle in late 2020 I began to notice the vehicle shuttering and shaking when coming to a complete stop or when I begin to reverse and when the vehicle shutters there is a significant RPM drop. The shuttering issue occurs randomly and is concerning but the bigger issue is that the vehicle has also stalled after coming to a hard stop twice in the last year. When braking hard from 60 mph to avoid vehicle the vehicles engine stalled out. When this occurred I had to place the vehicle in park then restart the engine. As of today I have never seen a warning message or anything that would let me know that there was an issue. When researching the topic I found that this is a known issue by Subaru related to a faulty thrust washer in the CVT and a TSB, 16-90-13r was issued but was not directly communicated to the customer. The warranty was extended to 100k miles but the vehicle was purchased at 128k miles and I was told that the repair would not be covered since it fell outside the extended warranty. Thankfully when the car stalled there was not a vehicle behind me and I was visible on the road but this issue poses great risk to safety since one loses power to the vehicle. Also, the symptoms of the failure would leave the average driver to think it was a more common issue ( pad, caliper, tire balance) which would be misdiagnosed.
|NHTSA ID Number:||11439918|
|Consumer Location:||DALLAS, TX|
I have owned this 2011 Subaru Outback since I purchased it brand new. Over the past 10 years, I have had to put approx 7 or 8 new batteries into the vehicle. The current mileage is approx 75,000. Over the past 10 years of owning this vehicle, I have kept the vehicle very well maintained almost exclusively at the dealership. I have been left stranded twice now in the past 2.5 weeks. I have been left stranded MULTIPLE times over the past 10 years. The battery cables have always corroded quickly the entire life of the vehicle in a way that I have never experienced with any other vehicle before. 2.5 weeks ago I arrived home from a 4 day trip to find my Outback dead at the airport. The battery was 3 years old at that time and had given no indication 4 days earlier that anything was wrong. AAA came out and attempted to jump start it without success. They then charged the battery but that also did not work. The engine didn't even attempt to turn over. The technician offered to put in a new battery and said he highly doubted it would help. Somehow it worked and I paid for the $150 brand new battery. But now 2.5 weeks later, the car is totally dead. AGAIN. There is nothing wrong with the battery, we charged it back up fully and yet the car will not work. I no longer feel safe driving this vehicle due to the fact that it's not only left me stranded multiple times but yesterday without warning the battery light started to flash on the dashboard followed by the the rest of the dashboard lights flashing while I was driving to pick up my child. As soon as I was able to pull over, the car stopped working and it was dead as a doornail. AGAIN. The vehicle is being towed to the dealership tomorrow. AGAIN.
|NHTSA ID Number:||11437078|
|Consumer Location:||GRAND ISLAND, NY|
I was driving and suddenly loss almost all brake pressure. The brakes just went to the floor. Fortunately I was driving on a 30mph roadway near my home and was able to safely get the vehicle home. The mechanic said is it the brake lines corroded. Sudden loss of brake fluid. I see Subaru has recalls on earlier years for this. You need to get them to recall 2010 and 2011 Subaru Outbacks for this brake line issue. I see all over the internet other folks have the same problem with the 2010 and 2011. This is going to cause a major accident and people could. be killed. Had I been on the highway and this happened, I know this could have caused a terrible accident. Subaru is clearly aware of this brake line problem and you have not informed the customer that this is happening with the 2010 and 2011 Outbacks! Please take action immediately to inform owner of this problem. We have a right to know.
|NHTSA ID Number:||11436318|
|Consumer Location:||SALIDA, CA|
The manufacturer, Subaru, admitted they have an issue with the ECU setting false error codes (P0128) when they issued a TSB, # 11-102-11R, calling for a software upgrade to fix the problem. This is an emissions related issue, in that it turns on various warning lights, including the SES light, making the car impossible to pass the routine smog check. So why should I, the owner, be required to pay the dealer to update the software for a problem Subaru has admittedly identified as a manufacturer error?
|NHTSA ID Number:||11435479|
|Consumer Location:||BEDFORD, NY|
Partial brake failure while driving on Interstate. When applying brakes, the dash light came on and the pedal went to the floor. Car stopped, but braking distance was very long. The problem was caused by the failure of a brake junction on the right rear side, due to rust.
|NHTSA ID Number:||11432834|
|Consumer Location:||KENMORE, WA|
- Windshield cracks instead of dings (6 separate occasions now) - Cracks across windshield hamper visibility - The minute dings that result in window cracking/failure have been observed by technicians at Safelite and possibly other auto glass repair companies who have replaced the windshield (in the previous 5 replacements) and I have photos of the current window ding/crack. Each time there is a small ding it immediately results in a large crack. - The windshield was inspected by the auto glass repair techs employed by the repair companies suggested by the insurance company. -No warning other than hearing the rock or whatever item that glanced off the windshield.
|NHTSA ID Number:||11431467|
|Consumer Location:||CAYCE, SC|
The contact owns a 2011 Subaru Outback. The contact stated while driving 50 MPH, several unknown warning lights illuminated. The contact pulled over to the side of the road and then had her brother-in-law continue driving manually to an independent mechanic. The mechanic inspected the vehicle and diagnosed the failure as a faulty transmission. The mechanic replaced the transmission with a used transmission with lower miles. The vehicle was repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 150,000.
|NHTSA ID Number:||11429558|
My 2011 Outback had a head gasket failure at 98,000 miles. The car overheated which forced me to pull over in heavy traffic. There was no prior warning or symptoms until the engine temperature warning light appeared. The car was repaired by the dealership at a hefty price. They said this problem is common on these vehicles, though no recall has been issued on the part. I filed a complaint with the manufacturer.
|NHTSA ID Number:||11428397|
|Consumer Location:||TACOMA, WA|
Torque Converter failure. When trying to stop, the car would stall out (not safe in busy intersections or when cars are behind you). No warning came up except momentarily when the stalling occurred. I have taken my car in to Subaru for all recommended servicing and repairs and directed based on mileage and service team recommendations. My vehicle was taken to my local Subaru service facility (Bruce Titus Subaru of Tacoma) for inspection after the stalling issue. Dealer confirmed the problem prior to repair (torque converter failure necessitating replacement). Torque converter failure is an all too common problem with the year and make of my car (2011 Subaru Outback) and Subaru of America put out an extended warranty coverage to rectify the complaints I presume. This was extended out to 10 yrs past the manufacture date or up to 100,000 miles. By car is ~ 7 months past the 10 year mark but still under 100,000 miles. Subaru of Americal is only willing to repay me $1000 back as a good will gesture (total pre tax was $2,321). This is a problem with so many of the Subaru's out there with CVTs. This was frightening to have happen and is beyond frustrating that people are having to pay out of pocket for issues that Subaru is well aware of but only willing to fix if a car has a failure in there extended warranty time frame. This SHOULD have been a recall for all cars due to safety!!!
|NHTSA ID Number:||11428418|
|Consumer Location:||BOULDER, CO|
I was driving at 65mph on highway in a like new 2011 Subaru Outback with 146,000 miles when the transmission valve body crapped out. This caused a severe shutter and loss of power like a missed gear, but thankfully I was able to coast off the highway without using the gas or without crashing. The drivetrain lost power unexpectedly again pulling into the parking lot off the highway. This action appears to be a major safety issue. I believe there is a manufacturing defect in one of the closed system parts that caused this perfectly maintained & repaired, vehicle in immaculate baby'd condition to fail. Vehicle is in perfect condition, and all maintenance in manual have been done as outlined by Subaru. My concern is the safety. Warning Lights were: Blinking Park Light Blinking AT Oil Temp Blinking Cruise Solid Check Engine Solid Traction Control The codes that were pulled were: P0700, P2764, C0057, C0054 Subaru of America has been notified of the issue.
|NHTSA ID Number:||11427474|
|Consumer Location:||BELLINGHAM, WA|
When coming to a stop the motor almost dies. When I went to start going into a roundabout the engine stalled and chugged like I wasnt in the right gear. It is an automatic... No warning lights or anything.
|NHTSA ID Number:||11426617|
|Consumer Location:||WEST JORDAN, UT|
Transmission was repaired with a new valve body at 119,000 miles. This was as a result of the TSB 16-90-13R released by subaru. The car now has 137K miles on it, and in researching the issue, the torque converter was not replaced when the work was done. Now the torque converter has fully failed and has damaged the transmission to where it needs replaced. The vehicle cannot be repaired under warranty despite the release;atively recent partial warranty repair. This car was stalling multiple times before it finally failed. We were quoted $6936 to replace transmission, but this is more than the car is worth.
|NHTSA ID Number:||11426099|
|Consumer Location:||DELAND, FL|
I have being experiencing shuddering and a few stalls on the highway and at red lights. While I have been able no maneuver through this, I find it do be extremely dangerous for myself and others, and in one instance it came really close to be a coalition.
|NHTSA ID Number:||11423478|
|Consumer Location:||CLEVELAND, TN|
This past week, I purchased a 2011 Subaru Outback for my daughter to have what I have always understood as a safe car. The car is nearly stalling on occasions when you come to a complete stop and at times when you are nearly stopped. The major incident is the engine shut off with me when I had to stopped quickly, nearly causing an accident when I had to put the car in neutral to start it back up. I was able to replicate it several times since then in places like empty parking lots....going as slow as 10 mph before putting on the brakes. No warning lights associated with this issue. I have not been to a dealer, but through research, I have seen that there is a faulty design in the transmission/torque converter (thrust bushing). I understand there is a TSB showing that Subaru would fix this problem, but only for vehicles under 100k miles (extended warranty). Our vehicle has 156k, but I don't see why mileage has to determine if a faulty design from the factory is replaced or not. It appears the original owner (I don't know them) either didn't have it fixed before 100k, it was fixed and has reoccured again, or the problem didn't manifest itself until after 100k and they decided to just sell/trade it. Nonetheless, this is not an acceptable problem for a car to have...especially for new drivers. I don't want to have to sell this car, because I really like Subaru's products, but I cannot have my children driving/riding in a car with this potential for causing a preventable accident. Thank you for your time.
|NHTSA ID Number:||11419836|
|Consumer Location:||STAMFORD, CT|
2010-15 Legacy/ Outback 2.5L CVT Garavel Subaru dealer expensive fixing and some cars have recalls.
|NHTSA ID Number:||11418326|
|Consumer Location:||TINLEY PARK, IL|
The Brake line on 2011 Subaru Outback are leaking in the rear. This vehicle is not listed under the " WQK-47 – Brake Line Corrosion – 2005-2014 Subaru", recall. But is exhibits the same problems. When Subaru USA was contacted, Customer Service said they was nothing they could do because the vehicle is not listed in the recall, regardless of it showing the same issues. The brake caution light was on. Brake fluid in reservoir was a minimum, I filled it to max level with Dot 3 brake fluid. Two days later the light came on with fluid level at minimum again. This is the family car and I do not want my wife or kids to have brake failure while driving. The above mentioned recall seems to be exactly what I am experiencing. When looking form below the vehicle fluid is leaking form the 2-2way connection area. Onset 5/15/2021. Vehicle is not currently being driven due to safety concerns.
|NHTSA ID Number:||11415297|
|Consumer Location:||BOULDER, CO|
THE INSTALLED CVT TRANSMISSION HAS DEVELOPED A LEAK AT 115,000 MILES OR LESS. THE ONLY SOLUTION OFFERED BY SUBARU AS A MEANS TO REPAIR THE SEAL LEAK IS TO INSTALL AND ENTIRELY NEW TRANSMISSION AT A COST OF $7,000. THE TRANSMISSION IS NOT BAD - THE SEAL IS. THERE WAS A WARRANTY EXTENSION SPECIFICALLY DUE TO THIS ISSUE WITH THIS CVT TRANSMISSION AND MODEL YEAR - AND WE ARE ONLY JUST OUT OF THE COVERED PERIOD. THE CVT WAS INCORRECTLY DESIGNED INITIALLY, AND THE POTENTIAL FOR INJURY OR ACCIDENT DUE TO NOT ADDRESSING THE ISSUE IS HIGH. SUBARU HAS NOT OFFERED ANY SOLUTION AT THIS POINT, AND HAS SUGGESTED THAT WE 'BUY ANOTHER MODEL'. THANKS FOR NOTHING. A POWERTRAIN ON A SUBARU SHOULD LAST - AND IS REPUTED TO LAST - UPWARDS OF 200,000 MILES. WE GOT A LEMON.
|NHTSA ID Number:||11415160|
|Consumer Location:||TINLEY PARK, IL|
WHILE DRIVING ON EXPRESSWAY, TO AVOID A SUDDEN ACCIDENT, I WAS FORCED TO HIT MY BRAKES. MY VEHICLE TURNED COMPLETELY OFF. I WAS IN A NEAR COLLISION MYSELF. THE NEXT DAY WHEN COMING TO A COMPLETE STOP AT LIGHT, MY VEHICLE AGAIN COMPLETELY SHUT OFF.
|NHTSA ID Number:||11414882|
|Consumer Location:||MINNEAPOLIS, MN|
OUR 2011 SUBARU OUTBACK HAD A RADIATOR LEAK WITH NO WARNING SIGNAL. THE CAR OVERHEATED, THE RADIATOR CRACKED, AND WE BLEW THE HEADGASKET. ONLY AFTER THE DAMAGE WAS DONE DID A WARNING LIGHT COME ON. THE CAR ONLY HAS 100K MILES AND HAS BEEN CAREFULLY MAINTAINED.
|NHTSA ID Number:||11414481|
|Consumer Location:||GREER, SC|
VEHICLE SHUDDERS AND STALLS WHEN STOPPING. SUBARU ADMITS THERE'S A PROBLEM IN A SERVICE BULLETIN BUT REFUSES TO ISSUE A RECALL.
|NHTSA ID Number:||11413695|
|Consumer Location:||TACOMA, WA|
THIS IS A RECURRING PROBLEM WITH MY VEHICLE. I WAS DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY, WHEN SUDDENLY MY DASHBOARD LIGHTS UP. I'M GOING 70 MPH, AND MY EMERGENCY BRAKE LIGHT IS FLASHING FOR NO REASON. IT'S WAS NOT ON WHEN I STARTED THE CAR, JUST SUDDENLY STARTED FLASHING 5 MINUTES INTO MY TRIP. THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ALSO CAME ON. I PULLED OVER AS SOON AS I COULD AND TRIED RESET MY E BRAKE. IT WOULD NOT TURN OFF NO MATTER WHAT I DID. ONCE IN PARK ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD, MY CAR WOULD NOT MOVE. THAT'S WHEN I HAD TO CALL FOR ROADSIDE ASSISTANCE TO TOW MY CAR HOME. MY MECHANIC USED A SCANNER TOOL TO DIAGNOSE THE PROBLEM, AND THEY DESCRIBED THAT IT WAS AN ELECTRICAL ISSUE. THIS HAS HAPPENED PREVIOUSLY, ABOUT A YEAR BEFOREHAND. I WAS ALMOST HOME FROM WORK WHEN MY BRAKE LIGHT CAME ON AT 50 MPH. TURNS OUT THE E BRAKE HAD ENGAGED WITHOUT IT BEING TOUCHED, AND THE LIGHT DIDN'T COME ON UNTIL SO MUCH DAMAGE HAD BEEN DONE. MY BREAKS HAD COMPLETELY BLOWN OUT AND HAD TO BE REPLACED. NOT ONLY WAS THIS A VERY UNEXPECTED AND EXPENSIVE FIX, BUT ALSO PUT ME AND OTHERS IN AN EXTREMELY DANGEROUS SITUATION. IF MY BEAKS SUDDENLY LOCK ON ME OR GO OUT IN THE MIDDLE OF TRAFFIC AGAIN, SOMEBODY COULD GET SERIOUSLY INJURED OR EVEN KILLED. PLEASE, I REALLY DON'T WANT TO GO THROUGH THIS AGAIN. I NEED MY CAR TO WORK.
|NHTSA ID Number:||11413212|
|Consumer Location:||LAKEWOOD RANCH, FL|
BRAKES MUSHY, EXCESSIVE PEDAL TRAVEL, HAVE TO PUMP THEM UP TO STOP. THIS HAS BEEN GOING ON FOR A LONG TIME. HAVE HAD NEW ROTORS, NEW PADS, DEALER FLUSH AND REFILL INCLUDING ABS WITH COMPUTER. NO CHANGE. BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER SUSPECTED, ESPECIALLY AS THERE WAS APPARENTLY A RECALL REGARDING CERTAIN 2012 MODEL OUTBACKS, I BELIEVE THAT ISSUE MAY APPLY HERE TOO. DANGEROUS